Jerusalem

I debated whether to even attempt to write anything this evening regarding my experience in Jerusalem today. I don't know if I have had too many other days in my life that were as emotional for me as today was. It will take me some time to sort out my thoughts and feelings about what I witnessed today. It feels very intense...confusing.....to be quite honest, I am not quite sure why it feels as powerful as it did today. I trust that I will sort this out over time.

We boarded our touring bus this morning in Modiin at 8:30. Riding with us was a young Israeli named Daveed. He was our guard for the day......complete with rifle in hand. Given that we were going to Jerusalem and that the trip would take us in and our of Israeli and Palestinian territory (This is just the drive from Modiin to Jerusalem) it is policy to have an armed guard with the party. I would love to tell you that I was perfectly comfortable with Daveed and his gun...but that would be a lie. It was disconcerting to say the least...... and once again was a tangible reminder of where we are and the realities of the Israel of today.

Our first stop of the day was at Yad Vashem, Israel's Holocaust Museum. For the next two hours we were taken through the history of the Holocaust and the attrocities commited by the Nazi's. We discussed the very long history of anti-semitism...the rise of the Nazi party....the lack of action by almost every country in the world, including the United States, to even attempt to stop the murder of 6 million Jews. We learned names of murdered children......names of non-Jews who gave their lives in their attempt to protect Jewish neighbors.....we discussed the increasing attempts on the part of many today to re write history by denying that this took place. We spent much time focusing on the 1.5 million children that were murdered. And yet, in the end, we celebrated that in spite of this attempt to wipe out world Jewry, we are still here......and in this specific instance...our discussion about this difficult and painful topic was taking place in the Jewish Homeland. We live...and we live well....and we bare witness..... to honor those that were murdered. And in the Jewish tradition of Tikkun Olam....we take on our individual and collective responsibility to make our world a better place.

We then traveled to Mr. Hertzel. Mt. Hertzel is Israel's Arlington Cemetery. Buried here along with Theodore Hertzel, are many of Israel's great leaders such as Yitzhak Rabin and Golda Meir. This is also the cemetary where many of Israel's fallen solders are buried. We visited gravesites and heard stories of several individuals who were killed in their service to Israel through its many wars. While listening to our guide, we noticed that Daveed, our guard, was cleaning a nearby grave site. He was simply clearing away some small branches and took some water from his water bottle and poured it over the grave stone, cleaning it. He then bent and kissed the grave. This was the grave of a close friend, his commander when he was in the service. He was with him the day he was killed in one of the battles with Lebanon.

For me this was an incredibly meaningful and moving moment of the day. This was no longer a story being told by our tour guide....this was not even a picture of children from the 1940's who we were told were murdered in the Holocaust. This was the so real for me. Listening to Daveed tell some of us about his friend who he cared for and clearly missed. It is said that there is not a person in Israel who has not lost a family member to war or knows someone lost to war. As I walked out of Mt. Hertzel with Daveed and our group, I fought back tears. I have rarely felt such a sense of sorrow and loss.

Once back on the tour bus, we headed for downtown Jerusalem and we had an hour to walk around an open air market and get something to eat. On the bus, our tour guide, Joel, stated that some of us might be feeling uncomfortable about coming from Yad Vashem and Mt. Hertzel and now immediately going to do something fun and entertaining. He asked if any of us were uncomfortable with this. I sure was......how was I going to be able to take a leasurely strole around the market about a morning of overwhelming sadness and loss? Joel shared that by experiencing this we now know what it is like to be Israeli. You might not know this, but Israel's memorial day, Yom Hazikaron, is followed the very next day by the Israeli Independence Day, Yom Ha'atzmaut. Given Israel's history, it is part of the Israeli mindset that you morn your dead, and then you immediately begin to celebrate and live your life again. We morned the fallen hero's this morning, Israeli's would then tell us, and they were, that it was now time to celebrate life. Oy!!!!!! what a morning!!!!!

We had only a little time in the Jerusalem market so we immediately found a place to eat. Daveed took Jared, Dan and I to a small place that according to Daveed, is the only place to get Miorav Yerushalme. Whatis this delicacy you ask? It is grilled chicken on a pita....and when I say grilled chicken, I mean all of the chicken.....chicken hearts, chicken livers, and who knows what other parts of the chicken are all thrown together with chicken pieces you and I know and love. It was really good!!!!!

We then went to the old city and to the Western Wall. Our guide, Joel, is extremely knowledgeable about history and the complexities of the old city. I would love to share with you some of what I learned but the facts were too many.......and the situation, now and for the last many centuries, is soooooo completely confusing. You know the cliche about needing a score card to keep track of things......you would need a thousand score cards to track who has conquered the land, who claims that this is the home of their religion, who believes that a small piece of land is God granted to them. I have often found myself, prior to this trip, extremely hopeful that peace will come to this part of the world. I do not want to say that I have lost hope, but you can't walk away from this without being much more realistic about the prospect of piece. Complicated and complex are words that do not do this situation justice!

My time at the Western Wall was highly moving...more so than I thought it would be. As I took my place by the wall, my fingers making contact with the stone, I closed my eyes and simply listened. As I took in the many sounds of prayer, I imagined myself standing there centuries ago. This is the exact same experience I have when I hear the Shofar played. This was a powerful moment of connection to my heritage and I did not want to leave. Carol, Joshua and Rachel appeared in my heart and mind and I wished they were here to share this with me. I began this blog sharing how for many years, my connection with Judaism was minimal at best. At that moment at the wall, I was no longer experiencing a small connection. I began the day learning how my people not only survived, but have flourished in the face of the Holocaust.......I was able to honor the Israeli leaders and soldiers who have given their lives toward the creation of the State of Israel....and I was now standing in a place that has been the site of deep, personal and meaningful worship for centuries. I found myself again tearful.....unlike this morning when my tears resulted from Daveed's loss....now my tears felt calm...they came from a place of connection......maybe even from a place of self forgiveness. As I walked from the wall, I found myself, as I did in response to Shabbat two nights ago, asking questions about what I need to do to hold onto this feeling...this peace...when I return home. I dont have those answers right now....I trust they will come.

Our touring ended at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. What a pleasure it was to experience this place with Kevin and Janie, our two delegation members who are Catholic. It was crystal clear how meaningful this was for them, to be at the place that is believed to be where Christ was crucified and where he was buried.

Such powerful and various religious symbolism and meaning all within a small piece of land!

Our day ended with a wonderful and relaxing dinner.

We are up early tomorrow as we head to the north to take in some more sites. On Tuesday we begin to visit our schools.

I love you all

Keith